The house is situated at a crossroads, from where we can decide whether to go to the beaches or the ports, to the mountains, to civilization, or to the forest. Everyone chooses the fairy tale or adventure they feel like living. Are we going to see the sea? So, the most convenient thing is to get into the car—or the motorcycle or bicycle, or walk for the more adventurous—and head north. Passing through the residential neighborhood of Metxika, we took a local road flanked by meadows with cows, sheep, and mares grazing, and further ahead, delving into tall pine and eucalyptus forests, we reached a conventional two-lane road that leads us to Forua. It’s better to park here; get on the train towards Bermeo and look out the right windows at the wonderful marshland…

We continue to Murueta, from where you can access the old shipyards of the Oka River marsh, or continue to the nearest beach, San Antonio, and its islets of Sandinere and Txatxarramendi, lush with vegetation, of unparalleled beauty. If we love the sea in its fullest expression, we will make a stop in Mundaka, a town frequented by surfers from all over the world in search of Europe’s longest left wave, with a charming little port where it is possible to buy fresh fish, and a cove with sand and gentler waters to enjoy a swim. If we take a walk to the north, we will come across the Santa Catalina Peninsula and its 19th-century hermitage, with views of rugged rocky beaches, the island of Izaro, the Ogoño rock, and the right bank of the estuary and its tourist beaches, where we will go on an excursion another day.

Very close to Mundaka is Bermeo, a port famous for its fishing and canning traditions. As we approach, we contemplate its showcase of disparate buildings in various colors, its shipyards, its fishing and sports port, and its array of bars and restaurants. Taking a walk along the breakwater is sensational and unforgettable: the vastness of the sea, the breath of the beloved port salt, so evocative and stimulating.

Ascendemos más hacia el norte, por una serpenteante carretera de vetustos árboles cubiertos de hiedra; alcanzamos el faro de Matxitxako —el más saliente de la costa de Euskadi y el segundo más septentrional de la Península Ibérica—, que ofrece una panorámica de casi 360º del horizonte oceánico. Subiendo unos kilómetros más arriba, aparcamos, y nos asomamos al mirador, desde el que oteamos el islote de San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, sobre el que se construyó la ermita homónima —siglo X—, un prodigio arquitectónico que reta a la bravura del mar abierto.  Desde el mirador, fotografiamos, respiramos y guardamos en nuestras memorias —artificiales y orgánicas— los bellos recuerdos de esa belleza natural y sobrecogedora

Si esta excursión nos ha sabido a poco, podemos descender, dentro de este biotopo —ya rumbo oeste—, hasta la playa turística y arenosa de Bakio, full of life, with people sunbathing, swimming, or practicing surfing and other water sports. At sunset, we looked at the sky—a canvas painted with moving colors—we returned to Forua, and from there home.

We arrived tired at the Aterpetxe and… What could be better than a nice dinner by the fireplace or in the garden? A bit of reading? A pillow fight in the bunks? Or a session of telling jokes, stories, or tales among family and friends? And to sleep, lulled by the characteristic silence of Sallobante… Sweet dreams…

We don’t mind, everything is fine with us, even the rain. Why not spend the morning walking and admiring nature? A comforting breakfast, and we set off northwest. We climbed a gentle slope on the paved road, through pastures populated with livestock, and after about 15 minutes, next to a fountain, we accessed the hermitage of Santa Cruz in Bizkaigane via a staircase. From there, at almost 400 meters above sea level, we can see a 360º panoramic view of much of Bizkaia: Bilbao, the estuary of the Nervión, the sea in the distance, the Cantabrian forests, villages with white buildings and red roofs, farmhouses, the Urkiola natural park, the high snow-capped mountains… Landscapes that from that place soothe the soul

Retracing our steps and taking another path to the left —to the north—, in a few minutes, going down, we found Bizkaigane Elkartea. Organic farm of ecological products derived from cow and sheep milk, cheeses, yogurts, kefir, chorizo, meat…

Let’s regain our strength, it’s time for hamaiketako —snack—, if our legs still have some energy, it’s not a bad idea to have a drink or a soda in Errigoiti, right?

Maybe today’s excursion has left us a bit tired. What better way than to rest at the Aterpetxe; reflect on everything we have seen and heard, and plan for tomorrow. We will have to get closer to civilization, buy food to cook, and along the way, get to know the famous municipality of Gernika-Lumo, which is just 5 kilometers away from us — in the southeast direction; in less than a quarter of an hour, we can get there by car; there is a bus stop.

The bombing, Picasso’s eponymous painting, the Assembly House, the Tree of Gernika, and the Museum of Euskal Herria have given this town international fame. It has parks, a market, banks, pharmacies, bakeries, train and bus stations, sports centers, bars, organic shops, a hospital, a cinema, workshops… There we will find everything we need to stock up. Its location —on the banks of the Oka River— offers us an interesting perspective of the marsh that forms at its mouth, with fauna and flora that are lovingly preserved. A walk through that biosphere reserve, the very heart of Urdaibai, is inevitable.

It’s sunny, and the heat is perfect for swimming; shall we explore the right bank of the estuary and its beaches? Of course! From Gernika —to the northeast—, we arrived at the Castle of Arteaga —19th century—, with neo-Gothic architecture, commissioned for Empress Eugenia de Montijo. Very close by, within walking distance, is the Urdaibai Bird Center, from where you can observe protected bird species with telescopes, without disturbing them, in relaxing silence. Shall we flip a coin to decide if we continue by car or by public transport…? We thought about it while having an infusion or a coffee…

Past Arteaga, on the road towards Elantxobe, we can visit the Santimamiñe Caves and the Painted Forest of Oma, two places of anthropological and artistic interest. But we said we want the beach today; so we return to the BI-3234 road. The first beach we found is one of those that we believe only exist in fantasy: Kanala —from the Cretaceous period—, subject to tides and lush with vegetation that creates shade over the fine sand; it is accessible to dogs at reasonable hours. Your pet can run around and swim freely in those waters, where it’s shallow, but be careful with the currents…

Next is Laida, a changing dune beach, from where it is possible to cross to the other side of the estuary, walking on the sand when the tide is low, and admire young people practicing spectacular water sports: kite surfing, paddle surfing, kayaking, kite flying… Climbing up the coastal road, immersed in the beauty of the sea and after a few curves, we descend to the most popular and highly rated beach in Bizkaia:

Laga is a sandy beach over 500 meters long, very frequented by all kinds of people eager for sun and beach fun, with beach bars, jewelry stalls, and a laid-back surfer atmosphere. Here, time passes without us noticing. But we wonder: What lies beyond that cape of Ogoño, which rises majestically over 200 meters high to the east? And our curiosity leads us to a dreamy fishing village:

Elantxobe is an architectural gem of seemingly disorderly little houses, which rise up the southeast slope of the stone and Cantabrian oak mountain of Ogoño. In the port docks, we will see teenagers jumping into the water from the piers and breakwaters, which form natural saltwater pools. The bathroom there is the best, I’m telling you from experience…

The days fly by on vacation, and I ask: Who wants to spend a day in Bilbao? A few of us got into the car, the others took public transport, and in forty minutes, we found ourselves in the center of one of the friendliest cities you can imagine. If we feel like it, we have the Old Town at our fingertips, its labyrinth of seven streets and the Cathedral of Santiago, routes for pintxos, tapas, and souvenirs, and the Guggenheim Museum, a masterpiece by architect Frank Gehry and a meeting point for art lovers, as are the Fine Arts Museum and the Itsasmuseum Bilbao —Maritime Museum—, at the foot of the new San Mamés stadium and near the island of Zorrotzaure. Beyond, towards the mouth of the Nervión estuary, rises the Bizkaia Bridge —19th century—, in Portugalete, and the Getxo Marina…

Of course, there are hundreds of extraordinary places to visit, not only in Bizkaia but throughout Euskal Herria: Gipuzkoa, Araba, or Iparralde (France), just a couple of hours away, or Cantabria —to the west—, or the beautiful villages of Burgos, or the Birthplace of the Nervión… Maybe for the next trip…